Custom Built Fishing Rods
High Quality New Zealand Custom Built Fishing Rods
Let K-Labs Help You Custom-Design your personal Fishing Rods
If it’s your original fishing rod design or your fishing rod that we help you
design … at the end of the day, K-Labs is prepared to help you bring your
fishing rod manufacture and production to life !
At K-Labs, we understand your custom-designed fishing rod order is one-of-a-kind. Whether you’re seeking a handful of fishing rods, a one off fishing rod, or a store full of your Private Label fishing rods … we’re ready to get started with your custom-designed fishing rod!
Our main lines are carbon softbait rod,slow pitch rod,Kabura / SLider rod, Vertical jigging fishing rods,SurfCasting rods, Short Butt Surfcsasting rods all made right here in New Zealand
When it comes to your fishing rod design, K-Labs® can build your fishing rods. If you can dream a up fishing rod idea or are simply seeking a functional rod, we can build your Private Label fishing rod line to meet your style, your specifications, and standards.
A guide to your new K-Labs custom build rod.
Getting your own custom made fishing rod is much easier, and more affordable, than many fisherman think. Plus, when you have finally ended up with your custom fishing rod, it will be one that is better quality than many mainstream fishing rods; it will be crafted to your specifications, colours, highlights, and preferences. There are many reasons to build and fish with a custom rod, here are just a few>>>
This is by no means a definitive or exhaustive list, it is written to be thought provoking on how you would like your fishing rod designed and what options there are available in rod components.
First you would need to know what style / application this rod is intended, is going to be used for a spinning reel or an overhead reel, while some fishing rods can have cross over applications they can also be built specifically, and for this exercise we will assume it’s a light tackle fishing rod used for soft bait fishing or soft plastics, these rods can be used for several other types of lures like micro jigs Kabura and sliders and similar , I predominantly use carbon fibre blanks, I use my own brand, Composite developments and CTS blanks these would be some of the finest blanks made in the world straight and true, if you have a specific type brand we probably have access to these as well.
So we start at the butt of the rod and work through to the tip we can formulate a parts list.
Butt end the options are Gimbal type, these will have a cross section on the bottom to engage to cross pin or vertical pin within the Gimbal belt, these can be me of Alloy or rubber, these can often come with or add a rubber cover which will conceal the gimbal entirely .Flat cap butt inserts these can be a flat plate of alloy or composite, to a rubber surrounded insert, Alps produce some very stylish butt ends , all of these have pros and cons, there is also EVA grips which encapsulate the blanks end so it’s a grip and butt all in one.
Grips, the two main types are EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate)and cork, A fly fishing traditionalist may scoff at EVA but it certainly is used more in rod building than any other type of grip, the current market price of high quality Portuguese cork here in New Zealand is about 8 times the price of EVA. Carbon fibre are relatively new to the market however the range and style Carbon fibre are somewhat limited, the big downside to these are that they cannot be worked on a lathe like EVA and cork grips so what you see is what you get, these can also dictate where the reel seat will lay on the fishing rod because of the set length they come in, whereas EVA and cork is an easy product to work with can you have the freedom to carve your own style, EVA grips that are pre-shaped in hourglass shape or similar will also dictate the position of the reel seat.
Grips are available in full length or split grip, split grip allows freedom to place the reel seat on the blank, full length straight EVA also allow this as it can be cut to length, but from a design point they are a little boring, shaped EVA are a predetermined length and should be used as such so this will be where the reel seat will end up on the blank. The cost of full length is cheaper to build as the hardware to trim the grips a redundant. The outside diameter of grip for this type of rod is generally between 25mm to 28mm, if we use larger grips it can create problems getting other parts to complement each other size wise, IE the butt EVA maybe 30mm and the butt cap is 26mm just looks unfinished so I like to get closest matched sizing possible.
Reel seats come in all shapes and sizes and materials, plastic / Graphite/carbon/ alloy/ minimalist style, and in that order they increase a minimalist can have six parts to create. They come in a range of sizes and lengths, the size indicators IE a size #18 will have an internal diameter of 18mm, so we have to bear in mind the diameter of the blank we are using and use the appropriate size reel seat, but because a blank may have a diameter of 14mm this does not mean we can use a reel seat sized #14, because what happens is with the decrease in the ID so does the over outside diameter and the length , so what happens is you have reel seat that you can barely grip because it so small, so in a spin style rod an idea size reel seat is an #18 it fits most hands comfortably. Overhead reel seat whilst the sizing principle is the same, the trigger grips make it possible to downsize to a size #16 if required.
The next line to decide is the foregrip or if any fore grip is needed, in light tackle rods I do not use them at all; however they trim the rod off, in saying that rods without foregrips are commonplace nowadays. Don’t think because not having foregrip makes a rod cheaper, it does not as the top side of the reel section needs finishing, this can be done by a simple winding check or by using other finishing trims like reel seat pipe extensions with winding checks, but using a grip does trim the rod off nicely, if you are an angler that needs a fore-grip, think of the length you would like 120mm – 150mm is plenty.
Once we have settled on the brand type and style of reel seat we can ascertain if there is a range of accessory parts to pimp this fishing rod right out. These come in the way of trims that can be cut into the grips, the winding checks to trip the ends of grips these are available in plastic / rubber / alloy and alloy in dimpled style or they can be wound with thread and clear coated to build a finished end.
So placement of the reel seat is very important, bear in mind the blanks we use now for this application are getting lighter and finer and we work the margins closer and closer the product capacity for which it was designed. If you can imagine a blank has three sections Butt, mid and tip, the butt being the strongest section which is where the lifting power comes from, the mid-section for your casting power still reasonably strong, then the tip which is the weakest section, so the question is why would you want a reel seat placed anywhere other than the strongest section of the rod. So often I get asked” I’d like the reel seat about 450mm off the butt so I can tuck the butt under my armpit”, this puts the reel seat quite a way forward and changes the fulcrum point hugely to where it should be, I personally like short butt about 250mm to 280mm from butt to underside of the reel seat on spin when soft bait fishing, so its gives you good forward weight and really does help keep the tip down and you are in a better position to strike hard when the bite comes, a rod that’s trying to point to the sky when softbait fishing when the hit does come, you are not in an ideal position to really set the hook and have little power to set the hook, so my recommendation is keep it low and use the rod blanks power to set the hook and fight the fish.
A hook keeper is a nice accessory to have but with all these twin hook rigs now can be dodgy and dangerous, well for me anyway as I’m fishing out of a kayak and reaching behind me blindly to grab a rod has on more than one occasion caught me in the finger, I tend to tuck the jighead up under the side of the reel seat hood, but yer nah can take them or leave them to be honest.
So that’s the general thought to get the butt section of the fishing rod laid out, guides well that’s another topic well cover later, some food for thought I hope on getting what you want out of your rod. Please drop me a line if you have any question or comments please feel free to drop me a line
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